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#1: NAESA Sugar Co. Author: knudsen, Location: Cobblers Knob, IN (coupla hunderd miles NE of Bone Gap, IL, I spose)

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:40 pm
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This is an HOe/HOn30 freelanced sugar mill layout based on my experiances visiting the Hawaiian Philippine Co., and the CAC, in Negros Occidental, Philippiens. My pictures from the trip are here, as most of you know Smile

The gandy dancers have been pounding away at the spikes, and it is out of the planning stage. Mostly anyway. Might have a few minor changes.

Most of the main line is pinned down, ready to be glued in place.

Last edited by knudsen on Wed Jan 24, 2007 8:19 am; edited 3 times in total

#2: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: knudsen, Location: Cobblers Knob, IN (coupla hunderd miles NE of Bone Gap, IL, I spose)

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:47 pm
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No power yet, I was just hand pushing my longest loco's and rolling stock to test the radii and smoothness of the track before gluing.

#3: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: Dawg, Location: NW Arkansas

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:40 am
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Looking great Jon wtg

#4: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: GearDrivenSteam, Location: Jones County, Georgia USA

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 1:04 am
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That's cool stuff, Jon. Love that narrow gauge.

#5: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: ray_m, Location: Dewey Az.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:14 am
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Looks good Jon.
How does the AHM Plymouth run?
I love the rollingstock.
I had an HOn30 line on one of my old layouts. The only loco I had was a modified Bachmann 0-4-0t

#6: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: NoSpaceOreCashRR, Location: Tulsa, OK

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 5:16 am
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Jon,
This is getting pretty exciting to watch develop. Great looking.

#7: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: fred_m, Location: Reeds, Missouri

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:13 am
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Pink dirt, how cool. Smile

Good start. Fred

#8: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: SAL.Comet, Location: Five beers north of Atlanta

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:37 am
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Jon, Are you building a layout on the kitchen table?

#9: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: loggeron30, Location: Castle Rock Colorado

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 1:00 pm
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Thants some cool stuff Jon!!!!

#10: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: Tyson_Rayles, Location: Poverty Acres, N.C.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:11 pm
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Jon what size is the layout?

#11: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: knudsen, Location: Cobblers Knob, IN (coupla hunderd miles NE of Bone Gap, IL, I spose)

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:23 pm
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Thanks for the positive nods, men.

Quote::

Love that narrow gauge.

I usually cut every other tie out and sometimes take two in a row, resulting in some pretty funky, neglected NG track. In this case though, the Atlas N scale looks dead on to my eyes, compared to the prorotype:

In the few places where you can see the ties, that is.

Quote::

How does the AHM Plymouth run?

It does not run real great yet, Ray. I have not tweeked up yet though. I have a NWSL gear set on order for it. It looks like with a little trimming, I could drop in an N scale Bachmann plymouth mechy if I had to.

Quote::

Pink dirt, how cool.

Metro layout! LOL

Quote::

Jon, Are you building a layout on the kitchen table?

Yup, you got it! Too damned cold in the garage!

Quote::

Jon what size is the layout?

3 ft X 4 ft, Mike. The track plan has a 1 ft grid. I was tempted to go 4 X 4 ft, but I want this to be a true portable, that is easy to mov earound and transport to take to a show if I ever do. 3 X 4 will fit in any of my vehicles, except my MG Laughing

4 X 4 gets harder to fit safely, even into my full size van. Not quite as small as a famous 2 sq. ft. Tyson layout!

#12: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: LiveSteamer, Location: Steaming Up The West Slope Of The Allegheny Mountains

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:24 pm
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Jon it is looking Great. I will sure enjoy watching you build this. wtg

:wtg:

#13: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: Tyson_Rayles, Location: Poverty Acres, N.C.

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:07 pm
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Jon that still is a pretty small layout! Looking forward to your progress.

#14: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: knudsen, Location: Cobblers Knob, IN (coupla hunderd miles NE of Bone Gap, IL, I spose)

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 11:36 pm
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The two longest sections of rail are just over 2 1/2 ft, so I needed to solder some rail in order to complete laying down the "main". On another forum some folks put down the $20 Cold Heat soldering iron. I believe someone said it couldn't even be used to tin wires. OK, I accept the challenge. It will be the only iron used on this layout tusk

It's actually very easy to use and works wonderfully when it is understood and used properly. The biggest problem is that bad soldering habits that are hard on a regular iron's tip will destroy the carbon tip. Some people press hard with their iron to get good heat transfer. This will break the Cold Heat's tip. With any iron, you should clean and tin the tip and/or work if there is bad heat transfer.

The weight of the iron actually provides sufficient pressure and additional pressure will not help. The key is to get both halves of the tip to make electrical contact with the work. The tip is split down the middle; it's actually two electrodes. There is a red LED that indicates the circuit is complete (notice it is lit in the pics). When you touch the tip to the work, if the light does not come on, gently rock the iron back and forth until it does. Once the light is on, just feed some solder. If the solder doesn't feed, just wait a few seconds until the work heats up.

It was so easy to use, I was able to hold it in my left hand for a clear shot in the 2nd photo. It had no problem at all heating the rail enough to melt the solder quickly, and to complete the work before any plast ties melted.

The last pic shows the solder flowed onto the rail and the joiner, with little sold used. No More the bigger the blob, the better the job!

#15: Re: NAESA Sugur Co. Author: knudsen, Location: Cobblers Knob, IN (coupla hunderd miles NE of Bone Gap, IL, I spose)

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 11:55 pm
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I wanted to try Jan's (wisecrafter's) newfound method of securing the track to the foam: www.trains.com/Content...9dcjrm.asp

Of course, I skimmed through the article, got the basic idea, then did it my way.

The track was pinned down in it's prospective postion.

Since I don't use a centerline (accuracy is not my forte!) I traced one edge of the track.

Then I squeezed a bead to the latex caulk, after lifting out the section of track.

-> The Branch Line

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